When the mesmerizing Spanish actress, Rossy de Palma, decided to create a fragrance, she selected rose as her main theme. While the choice of such a classical flower for the star of Pedro Almódovar’s Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown might have struck some as surprising, the perfumers Antoine Lie and Antoine Maisondieu weren’t taken aback. They were the co-authors of de Palma’s scent, and when it was released as Eau de Protection by the niche perfume house Etat Libre d’Orange, the result was anything but staid. As the perfumers knew, rose had many faces, and it could be made as smoldering or as innocent as an artist’s skill allowed.

Eau de Protection opens up on a spicy but fresh accord of green citrus peel and black pepper, but as the rose unfolds, so does the dark note reminiscent of damp soil and antique woods. Spice, honey, green sap, and fruit, the notes present in rose absolute, are cleverly highlighted in the fragrance, but the overall effect is abstract. The perfume is memorable not only because of its opulent character—aided by the generous dose of natural rose essence—and original interpretation, but also for doing away with the usual gender labels.  For a man who loves patchouli, amber and dark woods, the prominent rose notes in Rossy de Palma’s Eau de Protection aren’t too challenging. On the other hand, a woman who wants to eschew the cliché of “sweet and pretty” would find it a perfect statement fragrance.

Continue reading →

Luca and I had an amazing conversation for nearly two hours talking about classical perfumery, how to learn fragrances, trends, and so many other topics inspired by your questions. Our session is available as a recording. If you couldn’t participate in person, I invite you to listen to our conversation. Available here.

Here are the topics we covered:

• what classical perfumes make Luca’s heart skip a beat
• what exactly goes into those cheap, dime a dozen perfumes
• the future of perfumery
• is it possible to create anything new? and which brands stand out still?
• if you know nothing about perfumery, where to start? (Luca’s great advice)
• which classical Guerlain perfumes we don’t like (yes, those exist)
• and much more!

Luca Turin and I talk about perfumery: fragrances we can’t imagine the world without, trends we hate, industry gossip and other things. Both of us have our distinctive preferences and experiences, and Luca is someone I admire and consider a friend, so we will keep these sessions open-ended. Our goal is to raise money to help my local community in Ukraine, but I can’t deny relishing the pleasure of chatting with Luca on topics both of us enjoy. We hope that this series of conversation will be inspiring, meaningful and entertaining.

P.S. Did you know that you can follow Luca via his Substack?

Here are the projects in Ukraine for which I’m raising money:

• Purchasing art supplies for the free-of-charge art studios that rehabilitate children suffering from post-traumatic shock.
• Supporting animal shelters run by the individuals I know.
• Working with local outreach programs to respond to the lonely elderly and their needs.
• Supporting local cultural preservation projects and traditional crafts.  I

Full disclosure: 50% of the funds raised will be donated to these charitable initiatives. The rest will cover our time and my Belgian tax obligations.

Luca and Victoria recording, €50 (after the payment is processed, you will receive a link to access the recording.)

For more information on Bois de Jasmin classes and other course offers, please visit the Perfume Classes page.

I never met my great-grandmother Olena, who passed away shortly after I was born, but I always felt as if she were a constant presence in my life. Partly it was due to the numerous recipe books that she left behind. The hand-bound sheets covered with Olena’s lacy handwriting detailed her techniques for stuffing a roast, making multilayer cakes or selecting fruit for jams and marmalades. The most intriguing of her recipes was the one she called “a dry perfume for gingerbread.”

Every European country has its own gingerbread recipe and a combination of spices that gives each regional variation its distinctive flavor. Olena’s Ukrainian version was scented with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, star anise, and a hint of saffron. When I blended it myself following her proportions, I realized that it was similar to the “gingerbread perfume” accord I learned making as a perfumery student, although my liquid version didn’t have the voluptuous richness of saffron.

Continue reading →

One of the first articles I had written for which I won an award for Editorial Excellence was titled Scents of Kyiv, a walk through my native city and a story of its scents. Returning to Ukraine, I keep cataloging aromas that I encounter during my travels–coffee and cigarettes in Lviv, poppyseed rolls and lindens in Poltava, expensive perfume and car exhaust in Kharkiv. So it was with much delight that I discovered a candle collection by Sofiya Dolna, an independent perfumer based in Ternopil, western Ukraine. Sofiya’s candle collection paints the olfactory portraits of three different Ukrainian regions–the south (Acacia Odesa), the east (Rosa Donbas), and the west (Cedr Gorgany). The scents are evocative. The presentation is gorgeous. The candles make a fantastic holiday gift. And yes, Sofiya ships her products all over the world–one of the best things about Ukraine is its amazing array of postal services.

The candle collection was developed a year ago in collaboration with two other artists, with each contributing their own interpretation of their native place.

Continue reading →

The Bois de Jasmin new class schedule includes new classes on Amber, Vanilla and Musk. We will decode these fundamental perfume materials and analyze fragrances that use them. I also invite you to explore perfume accords and classical fragrances using them in our classes on Jasmine & Woods and Rose & Incense accords. I’ve selected seasonal themes for these sessions to inspire your explorations and give you ideas on what to try next. The classes are for all perfume lovers, regardless of their level of interest, and since the class size is small, the lectures are tailored to the audience.

The class size is small to ensure that everyone gets attention and a chance to interact. The class is run as a lecture interspersed with guided smelling exercises. My style of teaching is personal and interactive. You will have a chance to ask questions throughout the class and there will also be an allotted time at the end for your questions on any fragrance-related topics. These classes are for students of all levels of interest in perfumery.

To register for the online courses, please go to the Online Perfume Classes page or take a look below:

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Amber
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: December 14th, Saturday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
SOLD OUT

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Vanilla
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: December 15th, Sunday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
SOLD OUT

Perfume Fundamentals Online: Musk
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: December 18th, Wednesday12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
SOLD OUT

3-Class Package: Amber, Vanilla, Musk
Take all three classes and save!
SOLD OUT

Perfume Accords Online: Jasmine & Woods
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: December 21st, Saturday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
SOLD OUT

Perfume Accords Online: Rose & Incense
Location: Online, Zoom
Date: December 22nd, Sunday 12:00pm-1:30pm EST/6:00pm-7:30pm CET
SOLD OUT
 

Brussels Studio Classes

We will explore perfume materials, rare fragrances, talk about history and legendary creators who made our favorite perfumes. Together we will learn the evolution of perfume history by studying some of the most iconic examples of the perfumery art in their original formulations. You will also perform exercises to sharpen your sense of smell. Some of the workshops include creating your own perfume accord.

Perfume Workshop (Brussels Studio): Vintage Perfumes and Stories

Journey into the captivating world of rare vintage perfumes. Uncover the history and artistry behind some of the most sought-after fragrances from past eras. Participants will learn to identify and appreciate the unique characteristics of vintage scents, explore the evolution of perfume-making, and gain insights into the cultural contexts that shaped these timeless creations. Hands-on sessions will include sampling rare perfumes and understanding their complex compositions. Perfect for fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike, this class offers a rare opportunity to experience the magic of vintage perfumery. Students will have access to my perfume collection and try iconic fragrances from Caron, Guerlain, Coty and Chanel.

Class location: Brussels
Date: SOLD OUT
Class duration: 2.5 hours
250€/per person   (50€ to be paid as a reservation deposit, the rest is payable in person on the day of the class)
Please contact me for other available dates

To request another date, please  email me.

Continue reading →